All over the North Olympic Peninsula here in Washington State, from Port Townsend to Neah Bay, there are endless paddling opportunities. Follow the Washington coastline and you'll find the Pacific Ocean connecting to Puget Sound via the Strait of Juan de Fuca, providing us with easy access to the saltwater elixir so many of us know we need, whether it be by standup paddleboard, kayak or rowboat.
In the center of it all, near my town here in Sequim, we have one of the best paddle destinations you will ever find. How does this sound...paddle five miles round trip along a wildlife refuge under the watchful eye of bald eagles, to an immaculately well-kept 1850’s lighthouse that you can tour any day of the week, which is located at the end of a sand spit where you can spend hours taking in the endless, breathtaking views of the snow-capped Olympic Mountains and Strait of Juan de Fuca? Did I mention that the only other way to get there, other than by boat, is a 10-mile round trip beach hike? (I’d rather paddle, thank you.) There are no roads, no cruise ships dropping off overfed tourists. It’s a place for those of us who know the value of visiting a distant place you arrived at under your own power. Did I mention the seals, sea lions and (if you’re lucky) the orcas you might encounter along the way? Seriously, the potential for a once-in-a-lifetime experience is there. And, you can be back in town enjoying delicious locally-roasted coffee and refueling in amazing restaurants 15 minutes after loading your boards back onto the car. All this describes a trip to Sequim and New Dungeness Light Station, which has been guiding sailors continuously on Puget Sound since it was first lit in 1857. A visit to the lighthouse really is paddle-trip perfection.
In the center of it all, near my town here in Sequim, we have one of the best paddle destinations you will ever find. How does this sound...paddle five miles round trip along a wildlife refuge under the watchful eye of bald eagles, to an immaculately well-kept 1850’s lighthouse that you can tour any day of the week, which is located at the end of a sand spit where you can spend hours taking in the endless, breathtaking views of the snow-capped Olympic Mountains and Strait of Juan de Fuca? Did I mention that the only other way to get there, other than by boat, is a 10-mile round trip beach hike? (I’d rather paddle, thank you.) There are no roads, no cruise ships dropping off overfed tourists. It’s a place for those of us who know the value of visiting a distant place you arrived at under your own power. Did I mention the seals, sea lions and (if you’re lucky) the orcas you might encounter along the way? Seriously, the potential for a once-in-a-lifetime experience is there. And, you can be back in town enjoying delicious locally-roasted coffee and refueling in amazing restaurants 15 minutes after loading your boards back onto the car. All this describes a trip to Sequim and New Dungeness Light Station, which has been guiding sailors continuously on Puget Sound since it was first lit in 1857. A visit to the lighthouse really is paddle-trip perfection.
Paddling to the lighthouse can be easy with a little planning. Without it, you could potentially have a nightmare trip if you were to just show up and hope for the best. The two things you need to examine closely ahead of time are the tides and the weather. There are two locations you can launch from but both are near the entrance of Dungeness Harbor. The entrance to the harbor is very narrow and on big tide exchanges there is a tremendous amount of water moving in or out of the harbor. That speedy current can give you either a free ride or a tremendous workout. Look to launch on an ebb tide (tide going out, an easier paddle to the lighthouse), spend some time at the lighthouse and maybe get a nice free ride home with the flood tide as the water comes back in. To make it even simpler, look for days and times when there isn’t a huge difference between low and high tide. Here is a link to NOAA's tide charts to help you pick the perfect day. |
You have two primary launch spots to choose from, but one of them, Dungeness Landing, can be tricky to find. It can also confound boaters and paddlers returning to shore because at lower low tides, the water retreats far away from the boat launch, leaving boot-eating mud that will grab you and keep you if you decide to go for a stroll across it. The other launch spot, Cline Spit is far more friendly at low tides and is the more commonly used site, although it does add another mile to your paddle trip. There is no charge to park or launch from either location.
The other very important thing to check is the weather and I’m mostly referring to the wind. Dungeness Spit and the lighthouse are located on the Strait of Juan de Fuca where strong westerly winds are often funneled down the strait during the summer, reaching its highest intensity upon reaching the eastern end of the strait. There are also north winds that come down the Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia that sweep through the San Juan Islands and wash over the Olympic Peninsula. These summer winds are fairly consistent and predictable. The fall, spring and winter seasons are a completely different story and bring mostly southern winds that can be powerful and extremely unpredictable. In April of 2015, two kayakers were killed and one critically injured when 35 mph winds came up on Dungeness Bay during a church group’s paddle trip and overturned their kayaks. The storm had been well-predicted so they shouldn’t have been out there to begin with, but weather and wind predictions are often wrong here because of the many micro-climates of Western Washington. On the flip-side, Sequim's own micro-climate makes this area one of the sunniest and driest locations in what is often a cloudy and soggy Puget Sound region. I use windy.com as my primary weather site and the lighthouse itself has its own weather station for current conditions which includes past climate data to look through as well. So spend time getting familiar with the wind and weather and if any wind event is predicted, maybe pick a different day for your trip and be prepared for the unpredictable. If things are questionable, you can always paddle inside the harbor and still have a good day enjoying the wildlife while staying close to shore. The water temperature here is around 45 degrees in the winter and as much as 57 in the summer; so yes, it’s always cold. Go ahead and bring a wetsuit or drysuit of some kind and always wear a PFD and leash of course.
The New Dungeness Lighthouse website is a great resource and has not only data from their weather station, but tide tables, live webcams, history and a lot more great information. You'll notice on the website that you need to add one other item to your pre-paddle checklist. They ask that you call ahead to 360-457-8451 and make a “reservation." I’m told the only reason for this formality is to get a headcount of how many people visit the lighthouse. You're not calling the lighthouse directly and it's not a safety check-in, merely a courtesy. If you forget to call ahead of time, don’t let that stop you from landing and touring the lighthouse. When you arrive at the lighthouse you will see a sign saying you need to make a reservation to land, but if you just let the keepers know, you will be fine.
Once you are on your board and paddling, you’ll be traveling along Dungeness Spit, a 6.8 mile sand spit, the longest natural sand spit in the U.S. Because of constant erosion from nearby bluffs and the consistent pattern of the currents in the strait depositing that eroded material to the spit, it continues to grow by 13 feet each year.
Dungeness Spit and the adjoining Graveyard Spit are home of Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge area. If you are a birder, this is a tremendous location to see many different species of waterfowl and shorebirds. You’ll need to stay at least 100 yards from shore until you reach the landing at the lighthouse, in the interest of not disturbing the many birds who call the refuge home, especially during the winter. Please refer to THIS PDF MAP provided by the refuge for boundaries and other info because the areas you can access changes depending on the season.
Along the way, be on the lookout for seals, sea lions and the occasional whale, including orcas, some of which (transient orcas) are also on the lookout for seals, but for a snack!
For more about the refuge, visit their website.
Dungeness Spit and the adjoining Graveyard Spit are home of Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge area. If you are a birder, this is a tremendous location to see many different species of waterfowl and shorebirds. You’ll need to stay at least 100 yards from shore until you reach the landing at the lighthouse, in the interest of not disturbing the many birds who call the refuge home, especially during the winter. Please refer to THIS PDF MAP provided by the refuge for boundaries and other info because the areas you can access changes depending on the season.
Along the way, be on the lookout for seals, sea lions and the occasional whale, including orcas, some of which (transient orcas) are also on the lookout for seals, but for a snack!
For more about the refuge, visit their website.
When you start to get close to the lighthouse you will see some signs showing you the designated landing spot for boats and paddlers. You will also see an enormous sign for boats not to drop anchor in a certain area because of the underwater utility lines running to the lighthouse. After you pull your board out of the water and start heading for the lighthouse, you will immediately see interpretive signs with great information. Right away you begin to soak up the history of this unique place. Keep in mind, it's the oldest lighthouse in the Northwest that still allows visitors.
The lighthouse has been manned and maintained by the non-profit New Dungeness Light Station Association since 1994 and you will be greeted by the current keepers upon your arrival. One of the most interesting aspects of this lighthouse is that you can join the association and make reservations to stay at the lighthouse for a week and volunteer as keeper. You generally need to make your reservation at least a year in advance but I’m told it’s well worth the wait.
Once inside, sign the guestbook, then go in and enjoy all the history and artifacts about not only the lighthouse, but the local native S’Klallam Tribes who have been paddling these same waters for centuries. You’ll then get to go up the tower and get the best view in town. Your view of the strait will often be of enormous cargo ships as they pass close by, transporting containers into Seattle; all with Canada and the city of Victoria as a backdrop. To the south, the view back towards the Olympic Mountains is just spectacular, especially on a sunny, windless day.
Once inside, sign the guestbook, then go in and enjoy all the history and artifacts about not only the lighthouse, but the local native S’Klallam Tribes who have been paddling these same waters for centuries. You’ll then get to go up the tower and get the best view in town. Your view of the strait will often be of enormous cargo ships as they pass close by, transporting containers into Seattle; all with Canada and the city of Victoria as a backdrop. To the south, the view back towards the Olympic Mountains is just spectacular, especially on a sunny, windless day.
Once inside, sign the guestbook, then go in and enjoy all the history and artifacts about not only the lighthouse, but the local native S’Klallam Tribes who have been paddling these same waters for centuries. You’ll then get to go up the tower and get the best view in town. Your view of the strait will often be of enormous cargo ships as they pass close by, transporting containers into Seattle; all with Canada and the city of Victoria as a backdrop. To the south, the view back towards the Olympic Mountains is just spectacular, especially on a sunny, windless day.
There are many picnic tables on site for you to enjoy a snack and relax while you take in all the beauty and history that surrounds you. For more adventurous souls, you can paddle out to the end of the spit to explore a bit more but expect the water to be rougher as you venture beyond the protection of the spit and into the open waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
There are many picnic tables on site for you to enjoy a snack and relax while you take in all the beauty and history that surrounds you. For more adventurous souls, you can paddle out to the end of the spit to explore a bit more but expect the water to be rougher as you venture beyond the protection of the spit and into the open waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Again, for the trip back I recommend a flood tide or at least a mostly slack tide and keep an eye on that wind. Check the WindAlert app or others that give you real-time information on wind in the area so you can know if something is headed your way. Also, just be alert to changes in the clouds or the water and listen for bigger waves crashing on the outside of the spit. They are all signs that conditions may be changing.
Enjoy the paddle back to the car and once you have packed up, it’s time to head back into Sequim to refuel. I recommend Rainshadow Cafe for their delicious coffee that is roasted in-house. Their chicken quesadilla is a perfect way to replace the calories you just burned and they have beer and wine available too if you wish to celebrate your trip with more than just coffee. For additional adult beverage options, you can visit Wind Rose Cellars and enjoy their award winning wines, or visit the Peninsula Taproom for beer. For relaxed dinner options visit Oasis Bar and Grill or Dynasty Chinese Restaurant. For fancier eats try Alderwood Bistro.
There are many, many recreation options in Sequim and all across the North Olympic Peninsula and I highly recommend making a weekend or more of your trip to the area. Bring your bikes and venture out on the The Olympic Discovery Trail which runs almost the entire length of the peninsula. Hiking options are nearly endless and a trip to Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park is always a must. Of course there are many other paddling destinations out here too, many detailed on our site and blog.
For camping options you can return back to Dungeness Recreation Area (the entrance for folks hiking the spit) or try Sequim Bay State Park or John Wayne’s Waterfront Resort and be right at the water for an early morning paddle the next day on Sequim Bay.
Each paddle trip in this area is special and when you have an amazing destination like the New Dungeness Lighthouse, it gives your paddling a purpose. At the end of the day, you’ll have plenty of amazing pictures and stories to share about that time you paddled to the beautiful old lighthouse outside of Sequim.
For camping options you can return back to Dungeness Recreation Area (the entrance for folks hiking the spit) or try Sequim Bay State Park or John Wayne’s Waterfront Resort and be right at the water for an early morning paddle the next day on Sequim Bay.
Each paddle trip in this area is special and when you have an amazing destination like the New Dungeness Lighthouse, it gives your paddling a purpose. At the end of the day, you’ll have plenty of amazing pictures and stories to share about that time you paddled to the beautiful old lighthouse outside of Sequim.
Many thanks to my friend Kip Tulin for the great telephoto pictures I was able to include in this post. Thanks Kip!